sauces info

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sauces info

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Whether they be simple or complicated sauces demand a great Wdeal of care and practice. Their importance is such that a chef is not recognized asa Master unless he excels in the art of saucemaking.

The sauce chef mixes his ingredients like a chemist or an alchemist rather like a sorcerer concocting his bubbling steaming potion he adds a pinch of this and a pinch of that. You can almost see a flame leap out of his casseroles and half light up his face. When the sauce is ready the artist has created a masterpiece whose perfection he alone can discern by sight and smell; it gives him an overwhelming satisfaction which shines out of his eyes. Now he need only taste the sauce to cor rect the seasoning and to confirm that his creation is indeed a success.

Sauces are often put into two categories brown and white. In order to make the socalled classic sauces and indeed all other sauces it is essential to use good basic stocks made from veal chicken or fish.

Some words of advice:

Once a sauce is cooked you must keep it away from any heat source. Dot a few flakes of butter over the surface to prevent a skin from form ing. If possible serve the sauce as soon as it is cooked.

Never throw away the carcass of any poultry you have just eaten but put it to good use; chop it up and put it in a saucepan with a mirepoix of carrot and shallot or onion and a small bouquet garni. Pout in enough water to cover the carcass and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes then strain through a muslin lined sieve and keep it until you need it and there you have some gravy or light stock which you can use as the base for a sauce or to add body to gravy next time you serve a poultry dish.

Always reduce dry white or red wine by boiling before adding it to a sauce casserole or dessert. ne wine will become more fullbodied and flavourful because the alcohol will have evapourated and the wine will lose its acid taste. Remember though that sweet syrupy wines like port Sauternes Bamc Beaumes de Venise etc have a delicate arorna and should be added to the sauce at the end of cooking; there is no need to boil them beforehand.

Compound butters such as crayfish anchovy pistachio shallot and Montpellier are added to the sauce once it is cooked with the pan off the heat; they are principally used in fish sauces.

Essences or infusions of vegetables or fruits such as mushrooms truffles peaches and so on add delicious nuances of flavour to a sauce but must be used with discretion. They should be added about 20 minutes before the sauce is ready. Another useful hint is that a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar will liven up a dull lacklustre sauce.

Thickening agents or liaisons

There are some methods of thickening sauces which we use more than others. Those which we use accentuate the taste fine flavours lightness and creaminess of the sauce so that it not only tastes better but above all it becomes more digestible. There was a time when the consistency of a sauce was practically all that mattered. Happily nowadays different principles are practised in saucemaking.

Our favourite thickening agents

Reduction:

This is done over high heat until the sauce reaches the desired consistency (often syrupy).

Butter or cream:

Butter is stirred into a sauce in small pieces cream I spoonful at a time. This may be done either over high heat or with the pan off the heat depending on the desired effect whether the sauce is to be light glossy etc.

Shellfish coral blood or foie gras:

These are mixed with a little softened butter or cream and added to the sauce off the heat. Never bring the sauce back to the boil or it will curdle.

Egg yolks:

Beat the eggs with a little milk or cream and add to the sauce off the heat. Do not bring the sauce to the boil or it will curdle.

Vegetables:

Make a gravy for degiazing by niashing with a fork any potatoes carrots or garlic which have been cooked with a roast.

Other thickening agents to be used as needed

Roux:

White or blonde roux are made by melting butter in a saucepan adding flour and cooking together. If the roux is hot the added liquid must be cold and viceversa otherwise the sauce will coagulate and go lumpy. You must cook the sauce for at least 30 minutes.

Beurre Manie:

This is a mixture of 1 spoonful flour to 2 of butter mashed together uncooked with a fork. It is added to the sauce a little at a time over high.heat. The sauce will thicken immediately. Beat with a wire whisk to incorporate the butter.

Sprinkling with flour:

Sprinkle flour over meat which has already been browned; this method is used for stews casseroles sautees etc. Stir with a spatula and place the dish in a hot oven (220C/425F/Gas 7) for a few minutes to allow the flour to cook before adding the liquid. The flour may be browned on a baking sheet beforehand. If this is done it takes on a nutty colour and becomes much more digestible. It also means that you can add the liquid as soon as the flour is sprinkled over the meat.

Arrowroot and potato starch:

Dissolve them in a little water or white wine. Add to the sauce over high heat; it will thicken very quickly. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.

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